To find yourself in McLeod, Montana, is to find yourself surrounded by space, mountains, and a handful of movie stars in their mountain hide-aways. A post office with the sign "Main Street" hammered to the building IS the downtown. Out on the main highway, just down the road from the Post Office, lies the Road Kill Cafe. Not just a cute name, the Road Kill offers burgers of elk, buffalo, and the common cow; all yours for $6.50. The beer glass, frosty; the elk, rare; the bar's dogs and kitten outnumber the staff of two. Both basking in their newlywed bliss, the proprietors show off their wedding photos as my ungulate of choice cooks away on the flames outside. I catch up on ancient episodes of Law and (DUNK DUNK) Order on a tiny TV above the bar while I take on calories and enjoy the dim and swamp-cooled confines of the Road Kill.